Kars

About Kars

Kars, in far eastern Turkey, is a practical destination for travellers who like old stone buildings, cold weather and places that do not arrange themselves around tourism. The city sits close to the Armenian border and has a mixed history visible in its streets. Russian-era buildings line parts of the centre, while Kars Castle rises above the Kars River. Walk up from the old town for broad views, but wear shoes with decent grip because the route can be uneven and icy in winter. Nearby, the Kümbet Mosque, originally built as the Church of the Twelve Apostles, is one of the city’s most recognisable buildings. The Kars Museum is worth adding if you want context before visiting the ruins outside town. Central Kars is compact enough to explore on foot, with simple restaurants and tea houses around Atatürk Caddesi and the older streets near the castle. Do not expect polished nightlife. Kars is better at breakfast, long walks and early dinners than at pretending to be Istanbul after midnight.

The main reason to base yourself here is Ani Archaeological Site, about 40 kilometres from Kars. This former medieval city sits on a high plateau beside the Turkish-Armenian border and contains churches, city walls and the remains of a cathedral. The open landscape is part of the experience, but it also means strong wind and little shelter, so bring water, sun protection and an extra layer even on a mild day. Public transport to Ani can be limited and schedules may change, particularly outside the main season. Ask your accommodation or the Kars bus station about current minibuses before relying on one, and consider sharing a taxi if the timing is poor. A packaged day trip is easier but only good value if it includes enough time at the site. Rushing Ani into a short photo stop defeats the point. The Eastern Express train from Ankara is the classic overland route, although the journey takes many hours and tourist-train tickets can be harder to secure than regular services. Kars also has an airport with domestic connections, while intercity buses link it with other Turkish cities. Check current schedules directly before travelling. Trains are scenic; they are not magic carpets with reliable Wi-Fi.

Food in Kars is hearty and built for winter. Look for Kars kaşarı, gravyer cheese and local honey at shops around the centre, then try regional dishes such as piti, hangel and goose when available. Goose is especially associated with the area and may be served seasonally, so ask what is actually being cooked rather than assuming every menu has it. Breakfast can be substantial, with local cheese, butter, honey, eggs and bread. Prices vary by restaurant, but small lokantas are usually a better budget choice than places designed for tour groups. Winter brings snow, short daylight hours and genuinely low temperatures, while summer is more comfortable for Ani and longer walks. Pack layers in every season and allow time for weather-related delays. If you visit Lake Çıldır, confirm transport and conditions locally, since access and activities change with the season. Stay near the central streets if you want to walk to restaurants and sights, and keep cash for smaller businesses. Kars rewards slow travel, sensible clothing and realistic planning. It does not reward turning up in thin trainers and discovering that eastern Turkey has opinions about weather.

Sightseeing in Kars

Kars is a practical base for seeing Ani Archaeological Site, old Russian-era streets and the highland scenery of northeastern Turkey. It is not a polished resort town, and that is part of its appeal. The centre is compact enough to explore on foot, though winter weather can make even a short walk feel like an expedition with paperwork. Start around Kars Castle, which sits above the river and gives you the clearest view over the town. The climb is manageable, but the stone paths can be slippery in snow or rain. Below the castle, look for the Kümbet Mosque, also known as the Church of the Apostles because the building began as a medieval Armenian church. Its changing use reflects Kars’s complicated history better than a tidy museum label can. Continue towards the river and Taşköprü, the historic stone bridge, then wander through streets lined with nineteenth-century stone buildings from the Russian period. Some are well maintained, while others are worn and closed. That unevenness is real, so do not expect a perfectly preserved historic quarter.

The main reason to visit is Ani, around 40 kilometres east of Kars near the Armenian border. The ruins spread across an open plateau, and you should allow several hours rather than treating the site as a quick photo stop. The Cathedral, Church of St Gregory of Tigran Honents and the city walls are among the most recognisable remains, but the scale of Ani matters more than ticking off individual buildings. Wind is a serious factor, even on a sunny day. Take water, wear shoes with proper grip and bring an extra layer outside summer. You can reach Ani by organised day tour, taxi or local transport arranged through Kars, but public transport options can be limited and seasonal. Ask locally for the current minibus departure point and return time before setting out. Do not assume you can simply find a ride back from the ruins. The entrance system and opening times can change, so check official information or confirm in Kars before travelling. Photography is easy; shelter, toilets and food options are less certain. Ani is not a place to arrive with one biscuit and misplaced optimism.

Back in town, spend time in the Kars Museum if it is open during your visit. It provides useful context for the region’s archaeological sites and cultures, although the collection may feel modest compared with major museums in Istanbul or Ankara. The old centre rewards slow walking more than a packed itinerary. Look closely at carved stonework, Russian civic architecture and the surviving religious buildings. If you want a second outing, Sarıkamış is reachable from Kars by train, bus or taxi depending on current services and makes sense for forest scenery and winter sports. Check transport schedules in advance, particularly outside the ski season. Kars itself has a railway station and long-distance buses, while the airport lies outside the centre. A taxi is usually the simplest airport connection, but confirm the fare before leaving. Local minibuses are useful within the region, though routes and departure times are not always displayed for visitors.

Food is part of the sightseeing here, especially in cold weather. Try Kars kaşarı, a firm local cheese, and look for menus featuring goose, called kaz eti, as well as dishes such as hangel or piti. Goose is often associated with winter and may not be available at every restaurant every day, so ask before building your entire evening around it. Central restaurants vary from basic lokantas to more formal places aimed at visitors. The sensible approach is to choose a busy local dining room, inspect what is being served and order what is fresh rather than chasing a supposedly essential address. Kars is best visited in spring, early autumn or winter if you specifically want snow, but conditions can be harsh and roads may be disrupted. Pack for cold mornings even when the forecast looks friendly. Give the town at least two nights, with a full day for Ani, and you will have time to see the principal Kars tourist attractions without rushing from one stone wall to another.

Hotels in Kars

Kars hotels are generally practical, affordable and concentrated around the city centre rather than spread across a large resort area. That suits the place. You can walk from many central properties to Kars Castle, Kümbet Mosque, the Stone Bridge and the old Russian buildings without arranging transport every time you want to see something. Look around the streets near Atatürk Caddesi and the central shopping area if you want restaurants, bakeries and local buses close by. The train station is south of the main centre, so check the map before booking. A hotel that looks “central” on a booking site may still mean a walk with a backpack, and Kars is not famous for gentle weather.

For a straightforward stay, compare established city hotels such as Cheltikov Hotel, Kar’s Hotel, Kars Konak Hotel and Hotel Temel, along with smaller guesthouses that appear on current booking platforms. Standards vary more than the star ratings suggest. Some properties occupy restored historic buildings with character, while others are plain modern blocks with larger rooms and easier heating. Read recent reviews for details on hot water, heating, lift access, sound insulation and breakfast rather than relying only on photographs. In winter, those details matter more than decorative stonework. Kars can be very cold, and a charming room with weak heating is still a bad room. Ask the hotel directly about late arrival if you are coming by the overnight train or an evening bus, since reception hours and check-in arrangements are not identical everywhere.

Your choice should also depend on how you plan to visit Ani Archaeological Site. Ani is outside Kars, with no simple town bus service that makes a hotel door-to-gate trip easy. Most visitors arrange a day tour, hire a taxi, or use a shared local arrangement, so ask your accommodation about current transport options and departure times. A central hotel is useful for finding a tour or reaching the bus station, but it will not remove the need to plan. The same applies to Lake Çıldır and Sarıkamış. If you are travelling by public transport, choose a hotel within an easy walk of the centre and use taxis only for early departures or heavy luggage. Confirm the fare before leaving. It is a small task, but cheaper than discovering a new interpretation of arithmetic at the destination.

Book ahead for winter weekends, school holidays and dates linked to the Eastern Express train, when demand can rise quickly. The train is popular, but Kars is not a city where you need to pay heavily for a luxury address unless you specifically want a historic building or extra services. A clean room, reliable heating, breakfast and a useful location are the sensible priorities. Breakfast often includes bread, cheese, eggs and local honey, though the exact spread changes by property. Try local dishes such as piti and Kars kaşarı outside the hotel, where you can compare places instead of accepting the first restaurant beside your accommodation. Before paying, check the final rate, cancellation terms and whether breakfast is included. Booking platforms sometimes display room details clearly, but not always the things you actually need, such as heating controls and a working shower.

Restaurants in Kars

Kars is not a city where you pick dinner from a long list of polished tourist restaurants. Food here is regional, filling and shaped by the cold climate. The main reason to eat out is Kars goose, known locally as kaz. It is usually served roasted, with rice or bulgur, and often arrives as a generous shared dish. Goose restaurants can be seasonal, and some require advance ordering because the meat takes time to prepare. Kars Kaz Evi is one of the better-known places associated with this dish, while smaller lokantas around the city centre may also serve it when supplies allow. Ask what is available before sitting down. A menu saying “goose” does not always mean goose is ready that day. In winter, it is especially sensible to eat earlier than you might in Istanbul. Kitchens can close between lunch and dinner, and late-night dining options are limited. Kars is a practical place, not a city that stays awake to serve your second dinner.

For everyday meals, look for traditional lokantas around Yusufpaşa, Ortakapı and the streets near Kazım Paşa Caddesi. These simple restaurants are usually a better value than hotel dining rooms, though standards vary and some places may have no English menu. Pointing at the trays is an old travel skill, and it still works. Look for piti, a slow-cooked lamb and chickpea dish; hinkal or hangel, pasta served with onion, yoghurt or meat depending on the kitchen; and soups such as ayran aşı or umaç aşı. Kars cuisine also includes excellent local cheese, particularly aged kaşar and gravyer, so a breakfast of bread, cheese, honey, eggs and tea is worth making time for. Hanımeli Ev Yemekleri and other home-style restaurants are useful when you want cooked food rather than kebab, but check the current location and opening status locally because small businesses change names or hours. The same applies to better-known central venues such as Pushkin Restaurant. They can be comfortable choices, but comfort often comes with a higher bill and less character than a busy neighbourhood lokanta. Cash is still useful, especially in modest cafés and canteens.

Kars city centre is compact enough for most restaurant trips on foot, and the railway station is within walking distance of the central area, although winter snow and ice make short distances slower than they look on a map. Ask your hotel for a current recommendation, then confirm the price and portion before ordering goose or a mixed meal. Turkish tea may appear without being requested, and bread, salad or small starters are not always included in the headline price. Restaurants near the Kars Castle and historic stone buildings can be convenient after sightseeing, but convenience is not proof of quality. For the best local food in Kars, follow the lunch crowd and choose a place with steady turnover. A quiet dining room at peak lunch time is not automatically a secret find. It may simply be quiet. Vegetarian travellers can usually manage with soups, cheese, beans, rice, gözleme and vegetable dishes, but meat-free choices are more limited than in western Turkish cities. If you visit Ani, eat in Kars before or after the trip rather than relying on restaurants near the ruins. Public transport and tour timings make a proper meal there less predictable, and carrying water and a snack is the sensible option.

Transport in Kars

Kars has three useful transport gateways: Kars Harakani Airport, Kars railway station, and the intercity bus terminal. The airport, with the code KSY, is several kilometres south-east of the city centre. It is small and fairly simple to use, which is good news when you arrive after a flight and have no interest in solving a transport puzzle before breakfast. Scheduled flights can change by season, so check your airline and the airport information before travelling. Domestic services commonly connect Kars with major Turkish cities, but you should not assume that every route operates every day. From the terminal, the practical choices are a taxi or an airport shuttle timed to incoming and outgoing flights. The shuttle is normally the better-value option if it is running for your flight, while a taxi is easier if you have heavy luggage or arrive outside the useful departure window. Ask at the airport desk where the current shuttle stop is rather than relying on an old online post. Transport arrangements in eastern Turkey have a habit of changing more often than a traveller’s budget.

The Kars train station is the main reason many visitors come by rail. It is south of the historic centre and serves the eastern end of the Ankara–Kars railway, including the popular Doğu Ekspresi and the faster Turistik Doğu Ekspresi services when scheduled. Train travel gives you a better view of the landscape than a night bus, although the journey takes time and seats or sleeper berths can sell out quickly in busy periods. Buy tickets through the official Turkish State Railways system or at the station, and check the exact departure point because services and booking rules are not identical. From the station, you can walk towards central Kars if you travel light, but the distance is less pleasant with a suitcase, particularly in winter snow and icy weather. Local city buses and minibuses serve the station area, though routes are not always obvious to visitors. A taxi is the least complicated option for a short transfer. Agree that the meter is being used, or confirm the fare before leaving. The station itself is functional rather than charming, so arrive with snacks and water if you have a long wait.

For intercity coaches, use Kars Otogarı, the city’s main bus terminal. Long-distance buses connect Kars with places such as Erzurum, Ağrı, Iğdır, Ardahan and larger Turkish cities, but journey times are substantial and schedules vary between operators. Compare departures at the terminal or on a reputable Turkish ticketing platform, then confirm the information with the company before travelling. Online listings can be incomplete, especially outside the main summer and holiday periods. The bus terminal is not in the middle of the old town, so allow time for a local bus, dolmuş or taxi. Dolmuş minibuses are usually inexpensive, but they can be crowded and may not have room for a large backpack. Ask for the direction of Otogar or your destination rather than assuming every minibus displays a clear English sign. At the terminal, keep your ticket and listen for boarding calls. Some operators provide a short refreshment stop on long journeys, but do not plan your entire food strategy around a paper cup of tea and a biscuit. Overnight buses can save a hotel night, though the cold outside and frequent stops make them less restful than the glossy adverts suggest.

Within Kars, most central sights are reachable on foot, including Kars Castle, the stone bridges and many historic buildings around the old centre. For longer trips, municipal buses and dolmuşes are the cheapest public transport, but route information is mainly in Turkish and service frequency can be irregular. Ask your accommodation for the current route and stop, especially if you are travelling to the airport, station or bus terminal. Taxis are useful for early departures and for places outside the urban area. They are also the realistic choice for visiting Ani, the medieval ruins near the Armenian border, because ordinary city transport does not take you directly to the archaeological site. You may find shared tours or taxis advertised locally, but check exactly what is included, how long you will have at Ani, and whether the return trip is guaranteed. In winter, snow and road conditions can delay everything, so build in extra time for airport check-in and train departures. Kars is not a city where public transport rewards frantic improvisation. Keep some Turkish lira, save your accommodation address in Turkish, and leave earlier than you think necessary. That last habit is free and works better than arguing with a timetable.

Shopping in Kars

Kars is not a major shopping city, and that is part of its appeal. You will not find the big international chains or a designer district here. Shopping in Kars is mainly about regional food, useful woollen goods, traditional crafts and small local shops. The city centre is compact, so you can walk between the main streets, the stone buildings and the market area without needing a car. From Kars railway station, the centre is several kilometres away, so a local bus or taxi is more practical with luggage. Start around the central shopping streets and the bazaar near the historic core. Shops tend to be most useful during the daytime, while some food sellers become quieter later in the afternoon. Exact opening hours vary, especially during religious holidays and winter weather, so ask locally rather than trusting a random online listing. Kars can be very cold, and browsing for an hour in a market is less enjoyable when your fingers have stopped working.

The best buys are edible ones. Look for Kars kaşarı, a firm yellow cheese, and gravyer, the local-style gruyere associated with the region. You will see these in delicatessens, cheese shops and general food stores around the centre. Quality and age affect the price, so ask what you are being shown and request a small taste if the shop offers one. Local honey is another sensible purchase, along with packaged butter, dried foods and regional pantry items. Cheese is usually better value than decorative souvenirs, but it is not the easiest thing to carry around Turkey for days. Ask the seller to vacuum-pack it, and check your airline’s rules if you are flying. Kars honey and cheese make good gifts because they are distinctive without taking up half your backpack. Kars shopping also includes wool socks, scarves, gloves and felt items, which are practical in this climate rather than merely ornamental. In craft shops and market stalls, you may find kilims, woven textiles, copperware and small handmade objects. Examine the stitching and material carefully. A machine-made item sold as “traditional” is still machine-made, even if the seller says it with great confidence.

For a more local shopping experience, visit the covered and open market areas in the central bazaar district and compare several shops before paying. The first price is not always the final one, but aggressive bargaining is unnecessary for a modest purchase. Be polite, ask the price clearly, and decide whether the saving is worth a ten-minute negotiation. It often is not. Check labels, weight and packaging on food products, particularly when buying loose cheese or honey. If you buy a kilim or larger textile, ask where it was made and whether it is wool, cotton or a synthetic blend. Do not assume every old-looking copper object is an antique. For souvenirs, small food items and winter clothing offer better value than generic magnets. Carry cash as a backup because smaller stores may not accept foreign cards, and keep a reusable bag with you. If you are travelling onward by train or intercity bus, shop near the end of your stay so food stays fresh and bulky purchases do not occupy your seat for no reason. Kars is easy to explore on foot, but a taxi is worthwhile when returning to the station with cheese, honey and enough wool to outfit a small sheep.

Nightlife in Kars

Kars nightlife is quiet, local and usually finished earlier than the late-night scene in Istanbul, Antalya or Izmir. The city centre around Cumhuriyet Square, Atatürk Caddesi and nearby side streets is where you will find most evening options. Expect tea houses, cafés, restaurants and a small number of licensed bars rather than a long strip of clubs. Kars is a conservative eastern Turkish city, and many people spend the evening drinking tea, eating and talking rather than moving between venues. That is not a problem unless you arrive expecting electronic music until sunrise. Start your evening with local food such as Kars kaşarı, hangel, piti, goose meat or kete, then walk through the central streets and see what is open. Menus and service can vary, so check the bill before paying. It is basic advice, but it saves more money than most travel hacks.

For a social evening, choose a central café or a restaurant that serves alcohol and has a few occupied tables. A busy room is usually a better sign than an impressive sign outside. Some venues may play Turkish pop, folk music or live music on selected nights, but schedules are not always posted clearly online. Ask your accommodation or a shopkeeper about that night’s options, and confirm the closing time before ordering another round. Alcohol is available in some restaurants and bars, but it is not served everywhere, particularly in traditional tea houses and family-oriented cafés. Tea houses are better for people-watching and low-cost conversation than for partying. Beer or raki can cost noticeably more in a licensed venue than tea, and imported drinks are rarely worth the extra money. Smoking indoors can also be an issue in smaller places, despite the rules. If you want a louder atmosphere, Friday or Saturday evening gives you the best chance, but keep your expectations sensible. Kars is not secretly hiding a giant club district. It is simply a city where the night tends to be measured in tea glasses.

Getting around after dark is straightforward in the centre because many sights, restaurants and cafés are within walking distance. Wear proper shoes in winter, as snow and icy pavement can make a short walk feel like a minor expedition. Taxis are the practical choice for accommodation outside the central streets or for returning late, while local buses are useful during the day but should not be your only plan at night. Ask your hotel or guesthouse to call a licensed taxi, and keep the address written in Turkish if your accommodation is hard to find. Kars Castle and the river area can be pleasant for an early evening walk, but they are not substitutes for a nightlife venue, and quiet areas become less useful once the streets empty. During winter, temperatures drop sharply after sunset, so dress for the walk between venues rather than the heated room inside. The most enjoyable Kars evening itinerary is usually simple: an early city-centre walk, a proper local dinner, tea or a drink in a busy café, and an unhurried return before transport becomes inconvenient. That may sound modest. In Kars, modest is often the accurate setting.

Coulture in Kars

Kars culture makes more sense when you look at its borderland history. The city sits in northeastern Turkey, close to the Armenian frontier, and its architecture reflects Armenian, Ottoman, Russian and wider Caucasian influences. Start around Kars Castle and the old city centre, where dark volcanic stone buildings sit along a largely regular street plan shaped during the Russian period. The former Russian quarter, often called the Baltık architecture area, has broad streets and severe stone façades that look more northern European than typical Turkish. Kars Museum is useful for putting the region’s archaeology and history in order, although you should check current opening details before walking across town. The Church of the Apostles, now used as the Kümbet Mosque, is another important stop. Dress modestly if you enter a mosque, remove your shoes and avoid treating active religious buildings as photo sets.

Food is one of the clearest ways to understand local life. Kars is known for Kars kaşarı, a firm aged cheese, and gravyer, a larger, nuttier cheese associated with the city’s Caucasian and Russian-era food traditions. Shops around the centre sell both, but quality and price vary, so ask to taste before buying. Local honey is also widely sold, and the region is particularly associated with highland beekeeping. In restaurants, look for kaz eti, roast or boiled goose usually served with rice, and hangel, a simple dish of dough with yoghurt, butter and sometimes onion. Piti, a slow-cooked lamb dish, is another local speciality, though the exact preparation depends on the restaurant. Portions can be heavy and menus may be limited outside evening hours. You do not need an expensive restaurant to eat well in Kars. A busy, plainly furnished place near the centre is often a better bet than a polished room aimed at visitors. Goose is seasonal in practice, so ask what is actually available rather than trusting a translated menu.

The strongest cultural excursion is Ani, the medieval city about 40 kilometres east of Kars. Its Armenian churches, cathedral and defensive walls stand on an exposed plateau beside the former border landscape. Allow several hours, wear shoes with grip and take water. There is little shade, and wind can make the site feel colder than the city. Public transport options can be limited and seasonal, so check local minibus information at the Kars bus station or arrange a shared taxi if the timetable does not suit. Do not assume every structure is open or safely accessible. At Ani, stay on marked paths and do not climb walls. Back in Kars, local culture also includes âşık performance, a form of folk poetry and music linked to travelling minstrels, as well as Caucasian dance traditions. Performances are not guaranteed every night, so ask at your hotel, a tea house or the local cultural centre instead of expecting a permanent tourist show. The city is quiet after dark. That is normal, not a failed nightlife investment.

Timing affects how you experience Kars more than most guidebooks admit. Winter brings serious snow and cold, while spring can be muddy and windy; summer is usually easier for walking and for visiting Ani, but evenings can still feel cool. The Doğu Ekspresi train from Ankara is a well-known way to reach the city, though seats and couchettes can sell out, especially during the popular winter season. Kars Airport has domestic connections, and intercity buses link the city with other parts of eastern Turkey. From the bus and train areas, you can reach the centre by local transport or taxi, but confirm the fare before setting off if the meter is not used. Learn a few Turkish words, particularly for cheese, goose, the bill and directions. In conservative areas, modest clothing is sensible, and it is polite to ask before photographing people, workers or religious ceremonies. Bring cash as a backup because smaller eateries and minibus services may not accept cards. Kars rewards slow walking, warm layers and realistic expectations. It is not a place that rearranges itself for tourists, which is inconvenient for ten minutes and useful for the rest of your visit.

History in Kars

Kars has a history shaped by its position on the northeastern edge of Anatolia, close to the Caucasus and the frontier with Armenia. The area was settled long before the modern Turkish Republic, with early power linked to the Urartian kingdom and later to Persian, Roman, Byzantine and Arab rulers. Medieval Kars became particularly important under the Bagratid Armenian Kingdom, which ruled much of the region from the ninth to the eleventh century. Nearby Ani, now an archaeological site near the border, served as the Armenian capital and controlled major trade routes. You can see why the location mattered when you stand on the plateau: roads from Anatolia, Georgia, Armenia and Iran converge around this part of eastern Turkey. In 1064, the Seljuk ruler Alp Arslan captured Ani and Kars, bringing the area into the wider Turkic-Islamic political sphere. Later centuries brought Georgian influence, Mongol invasions, Timurid campaigns and various local dynasties. History here is not arranged in neat national chapters. It is more like a stack of old maps, with each empire drawing a new border over the previous one.

The Kars Castle, or Kars Citadel, is the most obvious place to start in the city. The first fortifications date back to the medieval period, although the current structure was rebuilt and altered by different rulers, including the Ottomans. It stands above the old town and gives you a useful view of the river, stone bridges and later neighbourhoods. The Ottoman Empire took Kars in the sixteenth century, but Russian expansion changed the city’s character in the nineteenth century. Russia occupied Kars after the Russo-Turkish War of 1877 to 1878, and the Treaty of Berlin transferred the city and surrounding district to the Russian Empire. Russian rule lasted until the end of the First World War. Look around the central streets and you will notice nineteenth-century Russian architecture, including broad streets and stone buildings that feel different from older Ottoman towns. The Alexander Nevsky Church, now used as the Fethiye Mosque, is one of the clearest examples of this layered past. Kars also has mosques, Armenian-influenced stonework and civic buildings from different periods close together. This is not a polished museum district. Some buildings are restored, others are worn, and that contrast tells you more than a freshly painted façade would.

The twentieth century was especially difficult. After the Russian withdrawal in 1918, Kars briefly became part of the First Republic of Armenia before Turkish forces took control during the Turkish War of Independence. The Treaty of Kars, signed in 1921 between Turkey and the Soviet republics of Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia, established the eastern frontier that broadly remains in place. Any serious account of Kars history also has to mention its Armenian population and the mass violence, deportations and deaths of Armenians during the First World War. The subject remains politically sensitive, and public explanations in Turkey and Armenia differ sharply. As a visitor, avoid treating the city’s old churches and ruined settlements as decorative scenery. They are evidence of communities that once lived here, not just photogenic stone. The nearby ruins of Ani are the strongest example. Its churches, city walls and cathedral show the importance of medieval Armenian architecture, but the site is exposed, large and short on shade. Bring water, wear proper shoes and allow several hours. The road from Kars is manageable by taxi, organised day trip or seasonal local transport, but schedules can change, so check locally before setting out.

For practical travel, Kars is easiest to reach by the Doğu Ekspresi, the long-distance train from Ankara, although the journey takes much of a day and popular departures can sell out well ahead of time. Check the current railway timetable rather than relying on old blog posts, especially if you want a couchette or sleeper berth. Flights to Kars Harakani Airport are quicker and usually connect through Istanbul or Ankara. Intercity buses also serve the city, but the train is the more memorable option and often makes more sense if you are already travelling across eastern Turkey. Stay near the central streets around Atatürk Caddesi and Kazımpaşa Caddesi, where you can walk to the castle, old stone buildings and local restaurants. Try Kars kaşarı and gravyer cheese, piti stew and hangel, a simple regional pasta dish. Restaurants may close earlier than you expect, particularly outside the tourist season, so do not leave dinner until the last possible minute. For the history of Kars, give yourself at least one full day in town and another for Ani. The castle is free to approach, but the real cost is time and cold weather. Winters are severe, snow can disrupt transport, and even sunny days may feel sharp. Kars rewards slow walking, sensible clothing and a willingness to read the city as a borderland rather than as a single-period attraction.