Kaş

About Kaş

Kaş is a small coastal town in Antalya Province, Turkey, with a relaxed feel, a compact old centre and clear water that makes it popular for summer holidays. The town sits on a hillside above the Mediterranean, so expect sloping streets and some tiring walks, especially in the midday heat. The most atmospheric area is around Uzun Çarşı, where whitewashed buildings, wooden balconies and the famous Lycian sarcophagus lead down towards the harbour. I like Kaş best early in the morning, before day-trip boats and beach visitors fill the waterfront. Start with a walk through the old streets, then pause for Turkish coffee or a simit near the harbour before the sun becomes too strong. The ancient theatre of Antiphellos is another worthwhile stop, with open views over the sea, although there is little shade. Kaş works particularly well for couples, solo travellers and families with older children who enjoy swimming, boat trips and wandering around independently. Families with toddlers should know that pavements can be uneven, some restaurants have limited space for pushchairs, and the town is not designed around sandy beaches.

Swimming is one of the main reasons to visit Kaş, but the local coastline is mostly rocky rather than sandy. Küçük Çakıl Beach and Büyük Çakıl Beach are close to town and easy to reach, though they can become crowded in July and August. Sun loungers, sea platforms and café service make them convenient, but the water gets deep quickly in places. A boat trip to Limanağzı is a pleasant alternative, and many visitors choose a day on the water for swimming and snorkelling around the coves. Kaş is also one of Turkey’s best-known diving bases, with beginner courses and guided dives available through local operators. Ask about equipment, group size, insurance and the exact dive sites instead of choosing only by the lowest price. Kaputaş Beach, between Kaş and Kalkan, is worth seeing for its bright blue water and dramatic setting, but the steep staircase and limited space make it less practical with very young children. Patara Beach offers a longer stretch of sand and is usually a better choice for a proper beach day, although getting there takes planning. Boat excursions can feel repetitive in peak season, and the cheapest tours may have crowded decks, loud music or little time at each swimming stop.

Food in Kaş is generally easy to enjoy without a formal plan. Look for grilled fish, gözleme, meze, pide, köfte and seasonal salads, and save room for dondurma or baklava. Restaurants around the harbour often charge more for the view, while streets a little uphill can offer calmer tables and better value. I would book ahead for a popular dinner in high season, especially if you need a child-friendly table, but avoid assuming that every attractive rooftop restaurant is worth its price. The town has a weekly market where you can browse fruit, vegetables, olives, cheese, clothing and household goods, and it is a useful place to buy picnic supplies. Kaş is easiest to explore without a car once you arrive, although a rental car helps for Kaputaş, Patara and quieter villages on the Çukurbağ Peninsula. Dalaman Airport is commonly used by international visitors, but the transfer is long enough to be tiring after a flight; Antalya Airport is farther still by road. Summers are hot, busy and relatively expensive, while late spring and early autumn usually offer more comfortable walking conditions. Check current ferry and entry requirements before planning a trip to the Greek island of Meis, which lies offshore, as schedules and border rules can change.

Sightseeing in Kaş

Kaş is one of Turkey’s most enjoyable coastal towns for slow sightseeing, with enough history and outdoor activity to fill several days without making every hour feel scheduled. The centre is compact and easiest to explore on foot, although the stone paving and steep lanes can be awkward with a pushchair or for anyone with limited mobility. Start around Uzun Çarşı, the old town’s main pedestrian street, where whitewashed buildings, wooden balconies, small shops and cafés lead towards the harbour. Look for the ancient Lycian sarcophagus near the upper end of the street, then wander downhill rather than following a strict route. The old Greek Orthodox church, now commonly known as Yeni Cami, is another notable landmark, although access can depend on religious services and local arrangements. Kaş harbour is pleasant in the early morning, before boat-trip groups return and the waterfront tables become busy. For a quieter break, choose a café on a side street instead of paying for the most obvious sea-view table.

The most important archaeological sight in central Kaş is the Antiphellos Ancient Theatre, a short uphill walk from town. This small, well-preserved Hellenistic theatre faces the sea and is especially atmospheric in the late afternoon, when the light softens and the heat is less tiring. The climb is manageable for many visitors, but it is not ideal in the middle of a hot summer day, and there is little shade once you arrive. Bring water and sensible shoes rather than treating it like a quick stop in flip-flops. Back in town, the waterfront promenade is a good place to watch the fishing boats and traditional gulets, while the harbour area also has operators offering scuba diving, snorkelling and day cruises. Kaş is widely regarded as one of Turkey’s best diving bases, with clear water, underwater ruins and marine life, but choose a licensed operator that explains equipment, depth and safety procedures clearly. Families may prefer a calm boat outing, while experienced divers can ask about sites suited to their certification level.

For swimming, Küçük Çakıl and Büyük Çakıl are the closest popular beaches, but both are pebble coves rather than broad sandy stretches. Water shoes help, especially with young children, and the shoreline can feel crowded during July and August. Büyük Çakıl has beach clubs and facilities, while Küçük Çakıl is convenient for a short dip close to town. Akçagerme Beach, a little farther away, is often more practical for families because it has a wider swimming area and organised facilities, though conditions and services vary by season. One of the region’s most photographed places is Kaputaş Beach, between Kaş and Kalkan. Its bright water and dramatic setting are real, but the beach is reached by a staircase from the road, parking can be difficult, and the sea may be rough. Go early if you want a better chance of space. The nearby coastal road is scenic, but do not assume every viewpoint is safe for stopping, particularly with children.

A full-day excursion from Kaş can take you towards Kekova, usually by boat from Üçağız or as part of a longer organised tour. The route commonly includes the partially submerged ruins of the ancient city of Simena, now associated with Kaleköy, where a hilltop castle overlooks the coast. Boat trips vary considerably, so check how much time is spent sailing, swimming and visiting land, and be aware that popular departures can feel crowded rather than peaceful. The Lycian Way also passes through the wider Kaş area, offering coastal walks and village routes, but the terrain is rocky, exposed and more demanding than the town’s easy promenade. Spring and autumn are usually kinder for hiking than the hottest summer weeks. Kaş restaurants serve reliable Turkish favourites such as gözleme, meze, grilled fish and piyaz, while the market day is useful for fruit, snacks and local produce. Prices rise on the waterfront, and service can slow at peak dinner time, so families may find an early meal on a quieter side street much easier.

Hotels in Kaş

Kaş hotels suit a wide range of trips, from simple guesthouses above the harbour to polished boutique properties on the Çukurbağ Peninsula. The best area depends on how you plan to spend your days. Staying in Kaş town centre puts you close to the harbour, restaurants, the Friday market area, and the small streets around Uzun Çarşı. It is the easiest choice for travellers who want to walk to dinner, join a boat trip, or avoid hiring a car. The trade-off is noise in summer, limited parking, and steep streets that are tiring with a pushchair or luggage. Rooms with sea views can also cost noticeably more, especially during July and August. Look beyond the first row of buildings, as a hotel a few streets uphill may offer a quieter night and a better price.

For couples and solo travellers, boutique hotels in Kaş are often the most appealing option. Many have small swimming pools, terraces, breakfast rooms and views towards the Greek island of Meis, particularly as the light softens late in the afternoon. Properties such as Hotel Sonne, Payam Hotel and Upper House Hotel are among the names travellers commonly consider in or near the centre, but facilities, policies and room conditions can change, so check recent reviews and the hotel’s current details before booking. I pay close attention to comments about soundproofing, breakfast variety, air-conditioning and the walk back from the waterfront. Kaş is hilly, and a “central” location can still mean stairs. For a quieter break, the Çukurbağ Peninsula has larger resorts and seafront hotels, but you will usually need a taxi or car for town, and swimming access may involve ladders rather than a sandy beach.

Families should look carefully at room layouts instead of relying on attractive photographs. A family room or apartment with a kitchenette can be more practical than two small hotel rooms, particularly when children need an early meal or a midday rest. Areas near Büyük Çakıl Beach can work well for travellers who want a swimming spot nearby, although the beach is pebbly and popular in high season. Kaş itself is not the easiest resort for toddlers: pavements can be uneven, shade is limited in some waterfront areas, and the walk back from the harbour is uphill. Ask about cot availability, pool depth, lift access and whether balconies have secure railings. A hotel breakfast is useful, but I would still leave room for local food, from gözleme and gözleme-style gözleme cafés to grilled fish, meze and piyaz, Antalya’s bean salad, which makes a good lighter lunch.

Booking outside the peak summer weeks usually gives you a calmer atmosphere and more choice among the best hotels in Kaş, while late spring and early autumn are comfortable periods for boat trips, walking and swimming. Before paying, confirm the cancellation terms, transfer arrangements and whether the quoted rate includes breakfast, taxes and air-conditioning. Some smaller pensions have no lift, and a sea-view room may face a lively bar or receive strong afternoon sun. If you are staying in the centre, take a break at a café around the harbour or in the shaded streets near Uzun Çarşı before tackling the climb back to your room. I would choose the town centre for a first visit without a car, the peninsula for a slower resort stay, and an apartment-style property for families who value space more than a full-service hotel.

Restaurants in Kaş

Kaş is a rewarding place to eat, but the best restaurants in Kaş are not always the ones with the most dramatic harbour views. The old town is compact, and many dining spots sit along or just off Uzun Çarşı, the pedestrian streets around the main square, and the waterfront. Start with Turkish breakfast if you can: bread, olives, cheese, eggs, tomatoes, cucumber, jams and tea are a far better introduction to local food than rushing straight to a formal dinner. Later, look for meze, grilled fish, calamari, köfte and seasonal vegetable dishes. In my experience, restaurants a street back from the harbour often offer a calmer meal and sometimes better value, while waterfront tables are lovely at sunset but can come with higher prices and slower service when the town is busy. Kaş attracts many visitors during the warmer months, so it is sensible to check the current menu, reservation policy and opening hours before making a special journey.

For traditional Turkish flavours, Zaika is one of the names that regularly comes up when people ask where to eat in Kaş. Its menu is associated with regional dishes and meze, making it a useful choice for sharing several plates rather than ordering one large main course each. Bi Lokma is another popular option to investigate for Turkish-style breakfasts and home-style dishes, although menus and service can change between seasons. Vegetarians and vegans should look at Oburus Momus, which has built a strong reputation for plant-based food in Kaş. It is a welcome alternative in a town where grilled meat and seafood appear frequently, but its popularity means it may not be the easiest place to walk into at peak dinner time. For seafood, restaurants such as Bahçe Balık and other fish specialists around the harbour can be appealing, especially if you want mezze followed by the catch of the day. Ask clearly about the price before ordering fish sold by weight, and confirm which side dishes and drinks are included. That small check avoids unpleasant surprises and is good advice anywhere on the Turkish coast.

Families may find lunch easier than dinner, since young children tend to cope better before the late evening crowds and steep, uneven streets become tiring. Kaş is walkable, but the stone lanes and slopes are not especially convenient with a stroller, and harbour seating can be cramped. Couples looking for a quieter meal should consider booking for an early evening table, while solo travellers can usually feel comfortable at a small meze restaurant or café counter. For a break between meals, choose a shaded café near the square rather than trying to sit through the hottest part of the afternoon outdoors. Prices in Kaş vary considerably, and imported drinks, seafood and sunset locations can push up the bill, so checking the menu first is worthwhile. My practical approach is to eat breakfast near the old town, reserve one dinner at a well-reviewed restaurant such as Zaika or Oburus Momus, then keep another evening flexible for a simple pide, gözleme or meze meal. That gives you a better feel for Kaş restaurants, local Turkish cuisine and the town’s relaxed but sometimes crowded dining scene.

Transport in Kaş

Kaş has no airport or railway station, so most visitors arrive by road. The nearest major airport is Dalaman Airport (DLM), roughly a three-hour drive from Kaş depending on traffic and the transfer route. Antalya Airport is another option, but the journey is usually longer, often around four hours or more. Dalaman is generally the practical choice for travellers coming from Istanbul, Ankara, the UK or northern Europe, especially during the main summer season. From the airport, you can arrange a private transfer, use a shared shuttle if one is operating for your arrival time, or travel by airport bus towards Fethiye and continue to Kaş by coach. The last option is cheaper but involves changing vehicles and can be tiring with small children or heavy luggage. I recommend checking the latest airport transport arrangements before booking flights, since seasonal shuttle services and departure times can change. A private transfer costs more, but it is far less stressful after a late flight, particularly because Kaş is reached along winding coastal roads rather than a motorway.

Long-distance buses arrive at Kaş Otogar, the town’s main bus station, which is within walking distance of the centre but not necessarily convenient with suitcases. The station serves intercity coaches from places such as Antalya, Fethiye, İstanbul and İzmir, although some routes are seasonal or require a change. Large Turkish bus companies often sell tickets online and at the station, but it is sensible to reserve ahead for Friday evenings, weekends and July or August. The road from Fethiye is scenic, yet the journey can take longer than the timetable suggests when traffic builds around popular coastal towns. From Antalya, buses generally follow the D400, with a mixture of direct services and connections. Kaş bus station is not a railway hub, and there is no train service into town, so avoid planning an itinerary around rail travel. At the otogar, ask the driver or station staff where your local connection leaves, because smaller minibuses may use a different bay from the full-size coaches.

For getting around Kaş itself, walking is usually the easiest form of public transport. The harbour, old town, market area and many restaurants are close together, but streets rise sharply away from the waterfront and some pavements are uneven. Sturdy shoes help, and a buggy can be awkward on slopes and cobbled sections. Dolmuş minibuses connect Kaş with nearby villages and beaches, including routes towards Çukurbağ Peninsula and places along the coast, though service frequency can be limited outside the high season. Destinations and payment arrangements are not always obvious to first-time visitors, so check the sign on the minibus or ask at the otogar before setting off. Taxis are useful for the bus station, accommodation on the peninsula and late returns, but agree that the meter will be used or confirm the fare before departure. For families, couples carrying beach equipment and solo travellers arriving after dark, a taxi can be worth the extra cost. During the hottest part of the day, take a break in a shaded café near the harbour rather than attempting a long uphill walk.

Kaş harbour also handles boat transport to Meis, the Greek island known as Kastellorizo, with services typically operated by licensed ferry or excursion companies rather than a regular municipal network. Crossings depend on weather, passports, border procedures and seasonal timetables, so confirm departure times directly with the operator and allow plenty of time for check-in. This is an international journey, not a casual water taxi, and visa or entry requirements can differ according to nationality. Local sightseeing boats and trips to swimming bays leave from the harbour too, but they are tours rather than public transport. For airport transfers and bus travel, keep the names of your accommodation and destination written down, since English is not guaranteed at every minibus stop. I also suggest carrying some Turkish lira for small fares, checking current schedules shortly before travelling and avoiding the assumption that a quiet winter timetable will match the summer one. Kaş is manageable without hiring a car, but a rental vehicle gives more freedom for remote beaches and ruins, while adding narrow roads, limited parking and the responsibility of driving after a long airport journey.

Shopping in Kaş

Shopping in Kaş, Turkey is more about slow browsing than large shopping centres. The town centre is compact, and most visitors spend their time around Uzun Çarşı, the stone-paved street leading towards the Lycian Tomb and the old town. Small shops sell handmade jewellery, leather goods, colourful textiles, ceramics, woven bags, lamps and souvenirs inspired by the Mediterranean coast. Some pieces are beautifully made, while others are clearly mass-produced, so take a little time to compare quality before buying. The streets are pleasant early in the day, but they can feel crowded when day-trippers arrive, and the uneven paving is tiring with a pushchair or for anyone who has difficulty walking. I find late afternoon a better time for relaxed browsing, especially after the strongest sun has passed. Around Cumhuriyet Meydanı, the harbour and the lanes behind the waterfront, you will also find clothing shops, beachwear, sandals and small galleries. Prices are often higher than in larger Turkish towns because Kaş is a popular holiday destination, so it is worth looking beyond the first shop you enter.

For fresh food and everyday shopping, look for the Kaş weekly market, generally held on Fridays near the town’s main market area. The exact layout and opening times can change, so check locally during your stay rather than relying on an old travel post. This is a useful place to buy tomatoes, peaches, figs, herbs, olives, nuts and local cheeses, as well as inexpensive clothes and household items. Go in the morning for the best choice, but expect heat, noise and plenty of activity. Vendors may offer samples, though it is polite to buy something if you have been tasting several products. Local specialities such as honey, olive oil, carob products, dried herbs and pomegranate-based goods make practical gifts, but check labels and packaging if you are taking food home. For children, the market can be more interesting than another souvenir shop, although the narrow aisles and busy traffic mean that close supervision is sensible. Keep small notes and coins available, since some market sellers may not accept cards. Bargaining is more appropriate for certain souvenirs and clothing than for fruit, vegetables or clearly marked fixed-price products.

A thoughtful Kaş shopping guide should also mention what to check before paying. Ask where a rug, ceramic item or piece of jewellery was made, and be cautious of claims that every attractive object is handmade or locally produced. If you buy silver or gold jewellery, request details about the metal and keep the receipt. For ceramics and fragile gifts, ask the shop to wrap them securely for luggage. Many smaller businesses accept bank cards, but connection problems can happen, so carrying some Turkish lira is sensible. The best breaks are close by: stop for Turkish coffee, tea, ice cream or a cold drink near the harbour, then continue through the old town once the children have had time to sit down. Couples and solo travellers can browse the quieter side streets and small design shops at their own pace, while families may prefer a short shopping session followed by the waterfront. Kaş is not the place for a huge retail haul, but it works well for useful holiday items, regional foods and a few carefully chosen souvenirs that feel connected to the town rather than picked at random.

Nightlife in Kaş

Kaş has a laid-back nightlife scene rather than the all-night club culture found in Antalya, Bodrum or Istanbul. After sunset, people drift towards the harbour, Cumhuriyet Meydanı and the narrow lanes around Uzun Çarşı, where cocktail bars, cafés and small restaurants stay sociable into the evening. The atmosphere is easygoing: holidaymakers share tables, music carries across the square and dinner often stretches into drinks. You will find Turkish meze, grilled fish, pide and rakı alongside familiar cocktails and beer. Some venues focus on DJs or dancing, while others are better suited to conversation, with rooftop or terrace seating and views across the bay. In my experience as a travel editor, Kaş works best when you treat the evening as a slow progression from dinner to drinks, not as a race between crowded clubs.

For couples and solo travellers, the Kaş bar scene is generally approachable, and the compact centre makes it possible to walk between many places. That said, the stone streets and slopes can be tiring, especially in sandals, and tables in popular harbour-side spots fill quickly during July and August. Drinks and meals in the most scenic locations can also cost more than in less central restaurants, so check menus before sitting down. A meyhane in the old town is a good choice for a relaxed evening, while a music bar may suit travellers looking for dancing or live performances. The sound level varies from street to street, which matters if you are staying in a pension or boutique hotel near the square. Families with young children can enjoy an early meal and an ice cream walk along the waterfront, but the late-night bar areas become less comfortable once music gets louder and smoking is common on outdoor terraces.

Kaş nightlife changes with the season. In the warmer months, the town stays active later, and sunset is the natural starting point for an evening out. Boat trips and waterfront restaurants add to the holiday mood, although a daytime excursion can leave children and tired adults ready for a quiet night instead. Outside the main summer period, some bars may operate fewer nights or close earlier, so it is sensible to check current notices locally rather than rely on old travel posts. My practical advice is to keep valuables secure, carry some cash for smaller cafés, and use a taxi if you are staying uphill or outside the centre after drinking. For a break from the party scene, walk along the harbour towards the quieter edges of town, or stop for Turkish tea and dessert before heading back to your accommodation. This balance is what makes the nightlife in Kaş, Turkey appealing: there is enough music and late-evening energy for a fun night, but not so much that the town loses its relaxed Mediterranean character.

Coulture in Kaş

Kaş is a small Mediterranean town where Lycian, Greek, Ottoman and modern Turkish influences sit close together. The ancient settlement was known as Antiphellos, a harbour town connected with the larger Lycian city of Phellos inland. The most visible reminder of that past is the well-preserved Hellenistic theatre above the centre. It is not a huge monument, and the climb can feel steep in the heat, but the view across the rooftops and towards the sea makes the walk worthwhile. You will also notice Lycian rock-cut tombs around town, including the distinctive tomb near the main streets, built in the shape associated with Lycian burial architecture. These remains are not separated from daily life by a large archaeological park. They appear beside roads, shops and houses, which gives Kaş a more layered character than a destination built only around ancient ruins. I find the best time to explore the historic sights is before late morning, when the stone holds less heat and excursion groups have not yet filled the narrow lanes.

Much of Kaş culture is found in the old centre, especially around Uzunçarşı and the streets leading down towards the harbour. Uzunçarşı is often translated as “Long Market”, although it is more a traditional stone-paved street than a conventional market hall. Look up at the old houses, wooden details and balconies instead of focusing only on souvenir displays. Some buildings reflect the architectural links between the southern Turkish coast and nearby Greek islands, particularly Kastellorizo, which is visible across the water and reachable by boat on suitable services. The town’s whitewashed façades, bougainvillea and blue-painted details are attractive, but the centre is not entirely quiet or preserved for sightseeing. Delivery vehicles use the narrow streets, restaurants occupy much of the ground floor, and summer evenings can become crowded. Comfortable shoes matter because the paving is uneven in places, and a stroller can be awkward on sloping streets. For a slower break, choose a shaded café away from the harbour frontage, where prices are often less inflated than at tables with a direct sea view.

Food is one of the easiest ways to understand everyday life in Kaş. Look for Turkish breakfast, gözleme, meze, grilled fish, seasonal vegetables, pide and dishes made with local herbs rather than ordering only familiar international meals. Small restaurants may serve şakşuka, haydari, stuffed vine leaves or octopus alongside bread and salad, while bakeries and casual cafés are useful for a quick snack with children. The local dining rhythm tends to start late, especially in summer, so families may prefer an early meal before the busiest period. Kaş also has a strong café culture, and sitting over Turkish tea or coffee is a simple way to watch the town without rushing between attractions. The harbour restaurants are convenient and atmospheric, but the setting can come with higher prices and menus aimed mainly at visitors. I would compare a few menus before sitting down, particularly if you are travelling on a budget. The weekly market is another good place to see ordinary shopping rather than staged local colour, with produce, clothing and household goods mixed together. Its exact day and layout can change, so check locally instead of relying on an old guidebook.

For travellers interested in local traditions and contemporary life, Kaş works best when treated as a lived-in town rather than a backdrop for photographs. Ask shopkeepers before photographing people, religious buildings or workshops, and dress a little more thoughtfully when visiting a mosque. The town is popular with divers, boat passengers and summer holidaymakers, so its cultural identity is not untouched or museum-like. In July and August, streets near the harbour can be noisy at night, accommodation prices rise, and parking becomes frustrating. Spring and early autumn usually offer a more comfortable balance for walking and sightseeing, while the sea may still be appealing outside the hottest months. Couples can spend an evening moving between meze restaurants and the waterfront, solo travellers will find it easy to join day trips, and families should plan pauses because the sun, hills and late meals can wear young children down. A visit to the theatre, a walk through Uzunçarşı, a market stop and an unhurried meal will tell you more about culture in Kaş, Turkey than trying to collect every nearby attraction.

History in Kaş

Kaş has a history that is much older than its relaxed café terraces and small-boat tours suggest. The modern town stands on the site of ancient Antiphellos, a Lycian harbour settlement on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. Its name is usually understood as “opposite Phellos”, referring to the inland Lycian city of Phellos, probably located near today’s Çukurbağ area. Antiphellos grew because of its useful natural harbour and its position along the coast, where sea routes connected Lycian communities with larger eastern Mediterranean markets. The Lycians were not simply an offshoot of Greek culture. They had their own language, political traditions and distinctive funerary architecture, although Greek influence became increasingly visible over time. Look closely as you walk through Kaş and you can still see reminders of that past in the Lycian rock tombs, carved stone sarcophagi and fragments incorporated into later buildings. The tomb known as the King’s Tomb, above the town, is one of the easiest ancient monuments to find, although the climb can feel hot in the middle of the day. I would go early, especially in summer, and carry water.

Antiphellos changed hands as the wider region changed. Lycia came under Persian influence before Alexander the Great’s campaigns brought Macedonian control in the fourth century BCE. The area later passed through Hellenistic rulers and became part of the Roman world. During the Roman period, Antiphellos benefited from maritime trade, and the harbour remained central to local life. The small ancient theatre of Kaş, generally dated to the Hellenistic period and later used in Roman times, is the clearest surviving structure from the city. It is not a huge monument, which is part of its appeal. The plain stone seating faces the sea, and visiting it does not require the kind of long archaeological expedition that can be difficult with tired children. There is limited shade, though, and the stone can be harsh under strong sun. Antiphellos continued into the Byzantine era, when Christianity shaped the region and coastal settlements were affected by changing trade routes, piracy and political instability. Much of the ancient city has disappeared beneath the modern town, so Kaş is not a place where every historical layer is neatly separated. Its past appears in doorways, walls and stones that share space with restaurants and guesthouses.

For centuries, Kaş was a small coastal settlement rather than a major Turkish resort. In Ottoman records and local usage, it was also known as Andifli, a name still heard today. The town sat opposite the island of Kastellorizo, called Meis in Turkish and Megisti in Greek, just across the water. That close relationship shaped trade, fishing and family connections, while also making the coast strategically important. The population history is complicated, as it is across much of the Aegean and Mediterranean. Before the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey, Greek and Muslim communities lived in the wider area. The exchange forced many Orthodox Christians to leave for Greece, including people connected with the nearby coastal settlements, while Muslim families arrived from Greece. It is worth remembering this human story when looking across to Meis from the harbour. The view is pretty, but the channel also marks a border created by political decisions that disrupted ordinary lives. Kaş later remained relatively quiet and dependent on fishing, farming and small-scale commerce. That slower character lasted well into the twentieth century, before roads, tourism and improved transport began changing the town.

Modern Kaş tourism grew gradually, helped by the old harbour, clear water and access to ancient Lycian sites such as nearby Xanthos, Patara and the hilltop ruins of Phellos. Diving became especially important because the coast offers underwater archaeology, reefs and wreck sites, although conditions and access vary by operator. The centre around Uzunçarşı, the harbour and Cumhuriyet Meydanı is easy to explore on foot, but the sloping streets can be tiring with a pushchair, and polished stone gets slippery after rain. In the evening, crowds gather around the waterfront and restaurant lanes, so a quieter look at the old tombs or theatre is usually better in the morning. The town is not as inexpensive as its fishing-village image might suggest, particularly during July and August, and some harbour restaurants charge for the view as much as the meal. For a break, I prefer a shaded café away from the busiest waterfront, followed by a plate of piyaz, grilled fish or a simple gözleme. History is not confined to the labelled monuments here. It is in the Lycian burial customs, the Ottoman-era name Andifli, the Greek-Turkish memories across the channel and the modern streets built around an ancient port.